Lake Como is one of those places that people who live in Milan talk about constantly but somehow never quite get around to visiting. If that sounds familiar, this is your practical guide to finally doing it.

The route we recommend is Varenna first, then the ferry across to Bellagio. It is the most iconic day trip from Milan and it works perfectly as a full day out or a relaxed overnight stay.

Getting There

Take the train from Milano Centrale to Varenna-Esino. The journey takes just over an hour and tickets cost around 7 euros each way on Trenord regional trains. Trains run roughly every hour and you can buy tickets at the station machines or in advance on the Trenord app.

One practical note: validate your ticket before boarding. Regional trains in Italy require validation and inspectors do check.

Aim to leave Milan by 9am at the latest. This gives you a full day without rushing and means you arrive before the midday crowds build up.

Varenna

The ferry pier is a 10 minute walk downhill from the train station. Signs point you in the right direction and the crowds leaving the train will be heading the same way.

Before you take the ferry, spend some time in Varenna itself. It is a genuinely beautiful village and far less crowded than Bellagio, especially in the morning.

Things worth doing in Varenna:

Walk the Passeggiata degli Innamorati, the lakeside path that connects the two main harbours. It is short but one of the most scenic walks on the lake.
Visit Villa Monastero if gardens are your thing. It sits right on the water and the views across to Bellagio are hard to beat.
Find a table at one of the waterfront bars and have a coffee or a slow lunch before crossing.

The ferry to Bellagio

Buy your ferry ticket at the booth near the pier before boarding. The crossing to Bellagio takes around 15 minutes and costs approximately 4.60 euros per person. Car ferries run roughly every hour. There are also faster passenger-only boats that run less frequently.

On a sunny day, stand on the deck for the crossing. The views of the lake and the mountains from the water are worth it.

Bellagio

Bellagio is the most famous village on the lake and it shows. It gets busy, especially between midday and late afternoon. The crowds are part of it, but arriving from Varenna in the morning rather than coming directly from Como means you beat the worst of them.

What to do in Bellagio:

Walk up the main street, Salita Serbelloni, which is steep and lined with small shops, cafes, and restaurants. It leads up to the headland with views over both forks of the lake.
Visit the gardens of Villa Melzi if you want somewhere quieter. They run along the lakefront just south of the centre and are less visited than the more famous Villa del Balbianello nearby.
Have lunch or aperitivo by the water.

Prices in Bellagio are higher than Milan so adjust expectations, but a good meal with a lake view is one of those experiences that justifies the cost.

Pro tips

In peak season, particularly July and August, the ferry queues can be long. Arrive at the pier at least 20 minutes before your intended departure and buy your ticket early.

Check the last train back to Milan before you arrive. Missing it means waiting significantly longer for the next one. The last trains from Varenna to Milan run in the early evening so keep an eye on the time.

If you want to stay overnight, Varenna is the better base. It is quieter than Bellagio in the evening, prices are more reasonable, and the morning light on the lake before the day trippers arrive is genuinely special.

Budget for a day trip:

Train return: 14 euros
Ferry Varenna to Bellagio: 4.60 euros
Lunch: 15 to 25 euros
Entry to a villa garden if you choose: 8 to 10 euros

Total for a comfortable day without splurging: around 40 to 55 euros per person.

The short version

Train from Centrale to Varenna, just over an hour. Walk down to the lake, explore the village, take the ferry to Bellagio. Have lunch, walk around, take the ferry back and the train home. It is simple, beautiful, and one of the best days you can have living in Milan.